August 18 - Leaving Elk Rapids

Starting mileage 48282

Finally, after being a total crab apple for two days, Deb is once again her normal, antagonistic, sexy self. We lolled around the campground for a few hours and set off for Macinaw City. We drove along the Lake Michigan shore on the way north. The scenery is absolutely awesome. Everything is green and clean. The air sparkles with life. If it didn't snow here, it would be paradise. Unfortunately....

The petunia seed manufacturer of America must have supplied most of northern Michigan's cities with seed. All alongside the roads are multi-colored beds. Some of the towns have petunias all the way through town.

We stopped at a roadside stop on the lake. Exquisite. Sparkling clear water. White rocks along the shore. I walked out a couple of hundred yards until it was just below my shorts. The sun-dappled rocks glimmered through the water. Light breeze blowing and fluffy white clouds against the azure backdrop.

Every farmer has his mom or kids out working the road. Peaches, corn, melons, pears, peppers are for sale every 200 yards. Homemade pies are for sale. I had to drag Bob away screaming and crying.

As we drove along Little Traverse Bay we continued to be amazed by the scenery and quaint towns. Many of these summer homes were built long ago. Then at Petoskey we veered to the west to take a lesser traveled road around the peninsula. AAA marked it with dots (scenic in other words). And it was.

Fall color has begun. The maples are turning. Remember this is the middle of August.

We stopped for a while in a small town called Harbor Springs. The harbor was spotless, and the water was clear and clean. Not a beer can or tire to be seen. I was amazed at the clarity of the water. I have only seen such clear water in tropical seawater. This was perfect. The harbor reminded me of a New England seacoast town. There was even a white church steeple.

Most of the shoreline houses were wonderful old white houses built in the late 1800s or early 1900s. Classic architecture - large, two story, wide porches, many windows - you could almost see a family of twelve in 1930s clothing bustling about on their summer vacation. All the houses appear to be maintained perfectly.

We continued north and eventually reached Macinaw City. There's a lot to do in the area so we decided to stay for two days and see the sights. There's a large bridge here which connects the Lower Peninsula to the Upper Peninsula, and they have the unparalleled nerve to compare the Macinac Bridge (Big Mac) to the Golden Gate just because it's a few feet longer. To me, however, the Big Mac is just another hamburger.

I did a little reading about this bridge. They didn't think it could be built. For years they did numerous feasibility studies. The engineers didn't think anything could withstand the winter freeze and storms. But they did it. Finished in 1954. Before it was done on the day before deer season there was a 7-mile line on Hwy 31 and a 15-mile backup on northbound Hwy 23. I say there was a need for this bridge. The previously run ferry system could not keep up with the travel requirements of the tourists.

Anyway, we have settled in for a few days. The weather is perfect. Deb's cooking.

Not hardly. I'm out here typing while guess who is inside chopping. The afternoon clouds have cleared and we have a sunny peaceful evening in a 600-site campground. The late afternoon arrivals are pouring in. Actually for such a large campground we have a remarkably quiet spot…not too close to the kiddie play area. Lake Huron is quietly lapping along the shores.

He is doing it again. Bob keeps harping on his idea of going out to these remote islands in the middle of the lakes. Today's idea is Isle Royale, out in the middle of northern Lake Superior. He heard there were wolves out there. There are no roads on this island, only hiking trails. We have no backpacks. He said we could throw stuff in a garbage bag. Sounds as unprepared as I was back in my 20s. The maples are already turning orange and we have skimpy acrylic blankets (no sleeping bags) for sleeping. I thought it would be so hot we wouldn't need bags. Tonight is already 60F and he wants to leave Vinnie. I told him to pitch the tent outside and practice camping with his acrylic blanket, but I don't see him doing this. With all the country left to see I do not want to go out to this damned island.

Well, we'll see what happens. I am hoping that it will be a nonissue after he checks into it further and discovers that all reservations for the campsites are taken.

Debbie, Debbie, Debbie… this woman just has no sense of adventure. She won't leave Vinnie even for a moment. Where's her sense of adventure? Wouldn't it be great to hear the wolves howling through the thin fabric of an inadequate tent?

August 19 - Macinaw City & Macinaw Island

Today, Deb and I became "fudgies." That's what the locals call the visitors to Macinaw Island.

We awoke early due to anticipation of our visit to Macinaw Island. After donning our jackets--it was cool and partially cloudy this AM--we rode off down the road to the closest ferry dock. Bob bypasses the closest one, so we could ride the hydrojet. A large plume of water flares off behind the boat. Considering that this island's only allowed mode of transit is buggy or bicycles or by foot, you would have thought there would be more bikes on board the boat. There was only 5-6 for 75 people. But then the entrepreneurs on the island count on this. There must have been 10 rental stores. Grandmas who hadn't been on bikes for 25 years follow the youngsters who wander back and forth across the road. No one is watching where they go and they stop and veer without the slightest warning. People are not the only obstacles…watch out for the soft road apples. And the puddles in the road are not water pools.

We did the eight-mile ride around the island. I've never been so frightened. People swerving all over the place. All the bikes were rentals and not in good condition. Remember, no motorized vehicles are allowed on the island. So the road was full of bikes, pedestrians, roller bladers, and all manner of horse-drawn vehicles. Even the "trucks" are large horse-drawn drays. Quite unique! But most of these people haven't ridden a bike in years and have forgotten the rules of the road. Riding among them is a terrifying experience.

We did explore the interior a bit, and it was a beautiful ride. The homes here are magnificent. We rode to the fort, too, but it was $7.50/ea., and we really didn't need to see another old fort. The hotel bellpersons are quite amazing. They can pile a massive amount of luggage on a bicycle for delivery from the hotel to the ferry docks. Thankfully though, most of it goes by horse-drawn vehicles.

When I was a boy, my parents brought my sister and I here, and I remember the Grand Hotel quite vividly. It was also featured in the movie "Somewhere In Time" with Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour. And, of course, any movie starring Jane Seymour is immediate Oscar material… but I digress. Anyway, I was excited about seeing the hotel again and sitting on the huge front porch with the magnificent view. I was quite stunned to discover that to enter the hotel now costs $10/person if you are not a guest. Not only that, but you aren't even allowed to ride your bike or horse along the front of it. We conferred the Poo-Poo Award on the hotel and rode on.

But once outside of town a road surprising named Lakeshore Drive encircles the island. It is totally flat. Lake Huron laps ashore. Multitudes of mixed wildflowers and ferns. Quiet grottos of trees.

After we circled the island we rode up through the center and gazed at some of the wonderful summer mansions. Victorian turrets and stained glass windows. Lots of old-fashioned flower yards--hollyhocks, snapdragons, asters, marigolds, impatiens - mixed all together in a riot of color.

Then back to town to the "fudge shops". I think there are only 6 fudge manufacturers, but they have invented a new marketing ploy. If you missed their shop on block #1, then you have another shopping opportunity on block #2 and also on the other side of the street. Do they really sell that much fudge?

Deb is talking about the same companies. One company will have four or five fudge shops in three short blocks. It's amazing that any one geographic location this small can sell this much fudge. It's an industry in itself. There are more fudge shops than T-Shirt shops. We didn't buy any, but the locals still consider us fudgies. All day-trippers are fudgies.

By now it is a clear, sunny bright day. We head back for the mainland about mid-afternoon and ride into town to see what is there. Not much, so we head back to the campground for a siesta in the sun.

August 20 - Leaving Macinaw City

Starting Mileage - 48393

A beautiful morning! I find myself wishing that Michigan didn't do that winter thing. There seems to be a lot to do here, and there are some beautiful areas. We broke camp and headed for the UP (Upper Peninsula) across the Big Mac (OK, OK so they call it the Mighty Mac - I lied.) I suppose that I will have to grudgingly admit that it is a beautiful bridge. We got some groceries and headed north.

Our first stop was the Shipwreck Museum at Whitefish Point. We were impressed. The museum is very well done, and the location is beautiful. It featured the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald. I had heard the song, but didn't realize it had sunk only 24 years ago in 1975.

They raised the ship's bell as a memorial to the 29 dead crew. I cried during their 15-minute documentary. Gordon Lightfoot singing his song about the wreck. A woman in front of us kept saying to her husband "That's Agnes"--the wife of one of the ship's crew. It personalized the tragedy of 550 ships sinking in Lake Superior. And right off Lightfish Point is the gravesite of many.

As we gazed over the soft lapping waves out onto the flat lake on a totally clear afternoon, it was hard to imagine the deadly foggy summer days and torrential windswept storms of November.

We stopped at both Lower and Upper Tahquamenon Falls, and they were beautiful indeed. Deb even rowed me across to an island for a better view. The water is full of tannin so the color is a deep yellow.

The water coming over the falls is the color of topaz. I would like to see a picture in winter with frozen icicles of yellow. The river has too much water to completely freeze even in the winters here. No…I do not want to personally see it…toooo cold.

The UP is a different kind of place. Much more remote than I had expected. I want to see a moose and hear the wolves howl before I leave. The air and the roads are clear and clean. It's nice here. Too bad about that snow thing…

Bob has me on "moose patrol". Every reedy, swampy stretch of the road is a likely candidate for a sighting.

Found us a friendly, quiet campground outside of Newberry. Bob is taking his girl out for Friday-night dinner in town. He asked the campground owner for a recommendation and we headed off for Timber Charlie's. The place was packed. The waitresses worked fast and efficiently and my babyback ribs were great. A couple of northern touches to mention--no rolls just crackers and Cheese Whiz as a spread, Promise not butter. Families were laughing; couples bellied up to the bar. As we left Bob said "Imagine leaving this for -10F in the winter". I would go back in for another brandy. Snow mobiling is big business here in the winter.

August 21 - Four Mile Corner near Newberry, MI (Where's Newbury?)

Starting Mileage - 48539

As I sit beneath the trees enjoying the cold bite of my pre-dinner martini, I am reminded of those fateful words…. It was the best of times. It was the worst of times… Houston, we have a problem… We need a bigger boat (Richard Dreyfuss to Captain Quint when he sees Jaws)…

Our tire bracket broke today, and it's Saturday with no welding shops in sight. OK so I may have exaggerated the problem slightly since it's only the spare tire bracket, but it's still a problem because we now have to carry the spare INSIDE Vinnie until we get this repaired. And this is not a small tire. Oh well…

Temporary fix…duct tape. It should work since now the weight of the tire is off the bracket. We should have no problem finding a welding shop in this land of self-sufficiency.

The day started with some outstanding weather - it was perfect. Crisp morning and a beautiful day. I cooked pancakes, we took showers, and then we departed for Oswald's Bear Ranch. This guy Oswald has been an amateur boxer, and he recently retired as a Michigan Game Warden before acquiring a baby bear some 10-15 years ago. This led to more and more bears and more and more visits by the public until he finally opened it as a "retirement" enterprise to the paying public.

Normally, I hate zoos and won't patronize them because I hate to see the animals ill-treated and confined in cages, but this guy obviously loves his bears and treats them well. He has about 10 adults in a large, wooded fenced area, two two-year olds, and two yearlings in large cages. He plays with them, and they obviously love the guy. They search his pockets for treats. The cages are spotless. We were there for the AM cleaning. It was a riot. He sprayed the bears with a firehose while he was cleaning the cage and filling their big water troughs. They loved it. He'd fill it, and they'd go sit in it. We have pictures. My mom would give her right arm to visit this place and hug a baby bear. They are amazingly cute.

He's building a new enclosure which is one half mile in circumference, and he will start by putting the two year olds in there next year after hibernation. If anyone ever gets to this part of the world, this place is worth a visit. Sue, what are you waiting for?

We opted for the "improved gravel road" route hoping for a more scenic route. Along the way we stopped at Lake Superior's edge for a beach walk. The rocks are round. In Erie the rocks were flat (perfect for skipping). Why the difference? But they are multicolored and in the clear water it was a kaleidoscope of color. Supposedly this is agate land, but we can't tell the rocks apart. Anyway I think this road is what did in our bracket. It was less bumpy to drive really fast on this road than the careful speed we started out.

We continued on through the spotless countryside and clean air until we reached Munising and the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. This was a $20 (each) boatride. It was our first boatride on Lake Superior, which is superior in many respects. It's the largest freshwater lake in the world, the cleanest and the larger than the other four Great Lakes combined. It is beautiful. I'll let Deb do the description of our ride.

We boarded the Miss Superior with Captain Dave and his two mates for our journey along the shoreline. Munising Bay is protected offshore by 30-mile Grand Island. We took the eastern inlet to skirt the island. There is one telephone on the island and only a couple of vacation houses since it is mostly state land. The line of demarcation between deep water and the shore reef is very distinct because of the clarity of the water. I asked if it was clearer now than in recent years thinking that maybe the zebra mussels had cleared it up, but I was haughtily informed that it has always been this pure and that the zebras can't live in it because of insufficient particulates for feeding.

Captain Dave was good, but we kept comparing him to our NPS captain in Everglade City. He will always be our standard for navigational entertainment and information.

So..the Pictured Rocks. Yep, they are pretty. Caves dripping with moisture into the lake below. There are lines and bands of green, orange, red, yellow, black, brown, white, turquoise. Patterns in the layers. Caves and arches. Strange shaped formations. You name it, we saw it. The winter waves buffet the shore, so no trees to obscure the view grow along these steep escarpments.

What's to do here in this town of 2,200? Well, 300 people work in the paper mill. Last year it snowed 5 feet overnight and the schools were closed only half a day. Lake Superior doesn't always freeze over totally only about every 4-5 years. Normally they have 200-250 inches of snow a year. Well, it is pretty now in August, but this will not be our home of the future.

August 22 - Munising, MI

Starting Mileage - Ooops

Today was canoe and moose day.

A very long day. It is 9:30 PM and we are just getting to a campsite.

We got up to a misty morning and didn't get moving too fast. We had a nice breakfast and then headed out for a canoe ride… five miles along the Au Train River. It was beautiful! A tranquil, slow-moving river through some beautiful forests. The first wildlife we saw was a mink eating a frog on a downed tree in the river. This prompted….

The Mink from the Drink

Munched for Lunch

A Frog on a Log Pure poetic beauty!

We saw a mink, a muskrat, a blue heron, turtles, frogs, chipmunks, ducks, and several small fish.

It was a good time. The river was shaped like a huge U so we were able to do the five miles, beach the canoe, and then walk back to the resort.

Bob, being the guy person, got control position. Lucky for this mighty duo that it was a very slow moving river. Many obstacles barred the path. Sunken logs and downed trees proliferate along this section. A couple of times we pushed off with the oars. Poetry in paddling says that you shouldn't have to use the paddles for pushing off logs, but I, in trying to learn tack as I get older, refrained from saying anything. Oh…only a couple of times I couldn't help myself. It was a lovely way to spend a couple of hours.

Poor Debbie… it was driving her nuts. I got to drive!

We then headed for Marquette and Moose Country. The shoreline along Lake Superior is a designated scenic drive…in case we didn't notice.

Once in Marquette Bob headed for the tourist information bureau and the Moose Report. Bad news…there have been no reported moose sightings, but we head off for the most likely territory. We spent over 5 hours peering out through marshy meadows hoping for a sight of the mighty moose.

Stupid moose. I didn't really want to see one anyway. There are no moose in Michigan.

The roads are horrific. Either washboards or dipsy-doodle, up-and-down roller coaster rides. We did, however, learn how to tame washboard roads - drive 40mph. Much easier on Vinnie.

We drove up a graveled road to our first lake and there was a camper nestled already in the only available spot. Other lakes were close by, but none with camping close, you have to portage in. We can't carry Vinnie. So we headed back to Huron Bay Road known as "the most likely spot to see a moose". It meanders up a marshy valley. Should have been perfect for a sighting. Everywhere we go the side roads are roped off with "No trespassing" signs. Any lake we found had "No camping" signs posted and still we didn't give up. Kept looking…no moose. So back at the state campground in slot #8.

By the way…do not buy a used car from anyone who has lived in UP. There are few paved roads. The paved ones are not all very good. They drive like speed demons on the "improved gravel" roads. Vinnie was significantly jarred this afternoon.

August 23 - Leaving Champion, MI

Starting Mileage - 48821

We are camped on the shores of Lake Superior tonight. I mean right on the shore. It's about thirty feet in front of us. There is a storm approaching from across the lake, but it appears to be dissipating.

This has to be one of Michigan's finest state campgrounds. In front of our site is a line of rocks with mowed grass down towards the lake. They have placed rocking lounge chairs strategically along the edge for our pleasure. We will be able to sit here on the western edge of the Keweenaw Peninsula and watch the sunset over Lake Superior.

Today was kind of a dull day, eh? We did get the broken tire mount rewelded. We had to take it off before they would weld it, and that necessitated our buying a new socket set. We didn't bring a large enough set with us. Deb grumped about buying another socket set, but a guy can never have too many socket sets, eh? The speech pattern has taken a distinctive turn up here you know. I can't put my finger on it yet, but I will soon enough, eh?

Can you imagine sitting in the car all day with Bob, eh?

We had 2 socket sets at home. Both are in storage. Now we have a third set.

Diner prices have taken a noticeable drop. A cup of homemade soup for $1.50 and a bowl for $1.75. Fresh grills bacon burger with fries for $3.25. Lunch costs about half of what it has cost in other areas.

We also stopped at the NPS headquarters for Isle Royale. That trip is out of his system. We don't have to go camping on a remote island with the wolves. Costs too much. And it takes 6 hours to get there on the ferry. And the weather doesn't look good for the next 4 days. Bob looked at pictures of moose and wolves so he is temporarily satisfied.

I am not! If it wasn't for the weather forecast for the next few days I am sure that by tomorrow we would be watching the moose and hearing the wolves howl. So instead here I am stuck in front of Lake Superior looking at Isle Royale across the lake instead of sitting on it and looking at this shore. If it wasn't for my martini I would be mightily grumpy like you-know-who was all day. Imaging getting that upset over a socket set.

We went to town for an extension cord. I couldn't stand it. I put on my riding clothes and glided back to the campsite. Good pavement, rare vehicular traffic and downhill most of the way. Can't ask for much more.

August 24 - Calumet, MI on Keneewaw Peninsula

Starting Mileage - 48928

Today we managed to get in a 48-mile bike ride. It was a beautiful loop to Copper Harbor at the end of the Keweenaw Peninsula at the extreme north end of the UP. I'll let Deb describe the ride.

First it was iffy that we actually did the ride. We were dressed and ready to go, but it was very foggy up on the ridge. Then the shoulder on the road petered out. The fog lifted and I convinced Bob that there would not be much traffic way up here in the UP. Surprising there was hardly any traffic. The road was straight enough that the vehicles could usually maneuver around up pretty easily. Of course, there were a few who were panicked by the sight of us on the road.

This is an ideal route. Gradual grades and sweeping turns through birches, maple, cedar forests. Other trees too. Lots of flowers alongside the road. Placid lakes and gurgling streams. The maples have started to turn vigorously into broad swathes of orange and red. The birches are turning yellow. Our road followed the ridge of the peninsula up to Copper Harbor. On the map towns were indicated. When we got to each one they didn't exist. They are old copper mines and all boarded up now. Don't look for water or food on the way.

We did have one cosmic experience….we were riding through a primitive area where the trees made a natural canopy over the road. As we started into it, a large black crow rode under the canopy and about 10 yards in front of us. This went on for about one quarter mile. He led us right through the canopy. It was a gnarly experience.

Gnarly was not the adjective I would have used. Graceful, floating, swooping. You could see why the crow choose this path. There were no branches in his way and always the possibility of road kill.

We wound up at yet another old fort, and we had a great lunch for only $8.25. Two bowls of homemade split pea soup, a BLT, and a cheesy-hammy thing that was excellent. The food prices up here are certainly "reasonable".

I am still mightily impressed with Lake Superior. Today we found out that it is "chemically pure". I think this means that it's 99.99% pure, but I could be wrong. It is wonderfully clear everywhere we've seen it.

The return trip skirted the edge of the lake. Short climbs and short drops. Enough to keep changing the gears. There are little islands of shore and secret coves and hidden lakes. The scenery was wonderful. Only the last two miles where we had to climb back to the ridge was work, and probably only work because we haven't been riding a lot and it was the end of the day. Anyone who gets a chance to come up here in summer to the UP should jump at it.

We have decided to forego the extreme western part of the UP in favor of an extra day or two in the remote reaches of Canada. I still want to see a moose and hear the wolves howl. Since we have a strong signal here, I think we will be able to post this week's journal. The day after tomorrow, however, we will be in Canada and unable to post or do e-mail.

End of Week 16