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Oregon

Oregon Route.jpg (120940 bytes)

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Day 12 – May 16 – Miles - 13/607
Klamath Falls, Oregon Rest Day

We are not going to fuel up at Jerry’s Restaurant next door. We had a really terrible experience there last night. The waitress could not get anybody’s order straight including ours, and she forgot everything anyone told her. They ran out of blue cheese dressing, which of course, is what we ordered. It was a disaster.

People in the back room of the restaurant started giggling. Not only did our waitress forget orders and was disorganized, they all were. How could one establishment hire so many spaced out waitresses? When we were finally able to leave, many people were waiting for tables. I almost told them all to find another place to eat but decided to let not to say anything.

We had a rest day here in Klamath. We lolled around, then we rode along the city’s bike path into town to find a bike shop. The bike shop people recommended the diner next door where we had a wonderful breakfast. This downtown block had everything we needed. Next to the diner was a hair salon which had a 10:30 opening for me. There was a barber shop around the corner for Bob. We both got haircuts.

Bob got a new wheel. His wheel had been giving him so much trouble. They didn’t have a strong, touring wheel, but we decided to go for it anyway, since what we had was not safe. The helpful mechanics in the shop on Main Street also tweaked my derailleur to get the shifting better. I did not have the standard gears that came with my Bianchi (32-42-52) since I had lowered my gearing (24-39-52), and the shifting was tricky. Not an optimum range for shifting, but it saved my knees.

We strolled alongside the river (looking for the falls in Klamath Falls) while we waited for the guys to work on our bikes. We walked in our riding shoes and now our feet are sore. Those shoes are not made for walking. Now Bob is whining.

I’m not whining. I’m not…I’m not…I’m not… At the bike shop we found out that part of my wheel, about a one foot section of rim, had weakened somehow and bulged outward. This is why my tires were blowing off the rim, and it is also why we couldn’t true it. They took my old axle and spokes and installed them into a new wheel. Now it seems to be fine.

Bob is lying here naked, vegging out watching TV. He won’t move. The only thing he wanted to do was buy post cards and we didn't get any.

The wind here is really intense. We’re afraid to go riding tomorrow cause we won’t get anywhere. It is really blowing hard.

Riding north to Klamath Falls the wind was blowing at our backs. It was an easy ride. Today the wind is coming from the northwest and it will be right in our faces unless it changes again.

 

Day 13 – May 17 – Miles 76/683
Klamath Falls, Oregon to Chemult, Oregon

We had a hard day today. We had to ride across town to get onto 97 North. They were doing construction on 97 so we had 25 miles of concrete barriers along the highway. It was 25 miles of absolute terror. Big trucks whizzing by and no shoulder. We walked a lot of it. There just was no place to ride. After that we faced 50 miles of hard riding. We climbed what everybody said was a great big hill, but it was only 300 feet, and when we got up on top we had to ride straight into a gusty head wind for 50 miles. The road went absolutely straight north with no bends or turns, and there were big trucks flying by us all the time. It was a hard 75 mile day.

Highway 97 leaving Klamath Falls is very heavily traveled. The first section follows the lake with mountains dropping to the road. Portions of it had those concrete barriers to prevent rocks from cascading onto the roadway. This is splendid for the vehicles, but to those of us on bicycles it felt very hazardous being squeezed between the 16 wheels of a rig and a rigid cement barrier. Whenever we reached one of those turns with the barriers, we crossed the road and walked on the other side. It felt much safer. I wondered though how long it was going to take us to complete this section.

Once past the scary parts we were able to enjoy the scenery. Off to the left (west) the Cascades emerged clear and crisp against the sparkling blue skies. I was proud to be able to ride up what they had told us was a big hill, but when we got to the top it never flattened out. It wasn’t a climb, it just wasn’t flat and then there were those headwinds. What a grind! Up on the mesa there was nothing to distract us since the road was absolutely straight and enclosed on both sides by pine trees.. I started counted cycle strokes between posts. Riding on flat found and making 8 mph. Ughhh!

In Chemult we found a comfy inn with a good restaurant down the street with a lounge. The bartender knew how to make a martini, so 2 of those helped our dispositions. We had meat (prime rib) for dinner. What else should you eat in grazing country?

We’re tired. It is 8:15 and Bob is snoozing. Not much more to say.

 

Day 14 – May 18 – Miles 69/752
Chemult, Oregon to Bend, Oregon

We couldn’t ride up in towards Crater Lake or along the Cascade road since there was still so much snow on the roads in the mountains. The morning ride was crispy in the low 30s especially in the tree shadows. Gloves were needed until the sun reached the treetops. I also used my thin polypro socks as an extra layer to keep my tootsies warm.

The 66 mile route from Chemult to Bend was great. Except for the horrendous traffic here in Bend coming in on 97, we felt like we hadn’t even been riding. We had a wide shoulder most of the day, tail wind, and beautiful weather with a good temperature. We stopped at the interesting Lava Bed Visitor Center. Note though that we did not hike to the top of the crater.

When we arrived in Bend, we didn’t even feel poopy. After checking into a motel room Bob got his wheel rechecked at Hector’s Bike Shop. Then we cleaned up and walked to an attractive downtown. The Deschutes River runs through the center of town. We sipped a beer at the local brew pub, decided to dine there, then we came back and watched Frazier on TV. Pretty exciting night.

What Deb said.

All day we were "Ridin’ the big cookie".

It was a nice day and a nice temperature. Sunny, warm, wide shoulder.

Bob also noticed this morning that people who work in bike shops are particularly friendly. They are pretty much there because they want to be there. They like working on bikes. The guys here were no exception. Very friendly and helpful.

By the way the State of Oregon provides free bicycle maps of the state. They have a coast route map and another of the whole state. Bicycle shops, ascents and descents are indicated with chevrons and the roads best to ride on are indicated by different colors. Sorry, I don’t have the address here in front of me. After we finish this journaling, I will post as many links and address information that I used to plan this trip.

 

Day 15 - May 19 – Miles 42/794
Bend, Oregon to Prineville, Oregon

We left Bend this morning. First thing to do was buy Bob some cheap shoes. The really cheap light-weight shoes he bought before we left Erie were not really shoes they were slippers. He couldn’t walk in them without griping. We went to Wal-Mart where he found $10 sneakers.

Finally! Finally we are going east. Up until Bend, the route took us north. I’m happy about this.

Traffic in Bend is just awful. Thankfully the phone book had a map of Bend bike routes, so we found some back roads. Got lost a couple of times. I said, "There will be somewhere to eat on our way out of town. Lets’ just get out of here", and so, we left Bend and there was no food. Don’t think I didn’t hear about it. We stopped at the airport. They said we would have to back 5 or more miles or continue all the way to Prineville. So after eating some goodies in our bag, we took off. Prineville was only about 28 miles away so we figured it wouldn’t take that long through the rolling desert with sage brush and juniper. Pretty good shoulder most of the way. Not too much traffic until we hit highway 126 where there was lots and lots of traffic.

Luckily there was a store at Powell Butte where we stopped for sandwiches to tide us over. One of those stores that sells gas, fried food, milk, batteries, saws, local crafts, transmissions and doughnuts. We saw many of these across the USA. 12 more miles to Prineville. I was saying "Oh, the road is not so bad. At least it has a good shoulder", and then the shoulder ended. We dropped down into Prineville. The road drops straight down to the valley floor from the butte. There is no shoulder. I screamed down the hill. Bob didn’t like it. I waited for him at the bottom.

There is a little campground outside of town. It was very nice today. Scattered clouds. Now it is windy. We washed clothes, we are going to work on our bicycles, and then have dinner.

When we started in Bend I was kind of hungry. Deb kept saying that we would get something along the way. On the map it did not look like there was anything along the way, and sure enough, there wasn’t. So I got no food…no breakfast. I was cranky. Finally we pulled up to a country store about 12 miles from Prineville. Got some food.

The descent into Prineville was not happy. The wind was very gusty. I don’t feel that stable on this bike, and I was still worried about my wheel. I haven’t learned to trust it yet. Going down this hill was quite a drop so I babied the bike down the hill Then the shoulder disappeared. Darn! What would ordinarily have been a smooth, screaming, and beautiful descent turned into a nerve-wracking experience.

The campground is very nice. Very clean. Not a lot of people. It’s next to the fairgrounds. Seems very quiet and off the beaten path. We will camp here and do our laundry. During the next three days we will be in some pretty remote parts of Oregon. We don’t know what to expect, but at least now we’ll have 3 days of clean cycling outfits. We’re going out to get some food, do some bike maintenance, and take it from there.

Small_Deb_in_Prineville_Camp.gif (90011 bytes)    Deb in Prineville Campground

I felt weak today. I had trouble getting up little hills. I don’t know what the reason was. Deb kind of felt that way, too. We didn’t have a big meal yesterday, so we are not sure if that was the reason or not. Anyway, we will probably have a nice meal tonight. It is Friday night. It is time to hoot and holler in Prineville, Oregon.

 

Day 16 – May 20 – Miles 54/848
Prineville, OR to Mitchell, OR

Got up at dawn…the drag of camping is that I have to leave the warmth of the sleeping bag and dress to pee in the morning. We had a great night. We both slept really well. It was a nice grassy park. No one else is up yet. We packed up and rode down to the same restaurant where we had dinner last night. Bob had waffles with whipped cream, and I had a cinnamon roll. A friendly old couple who was traveling asked us many questions all through breakfast.

We took off east toward the town of Mitchell. At first – probably 5 or so miles- were flat. We rode into a headwind which wasn’t supposed to be there. We went up to and then around the Ochoco Reservoir, another 5 miles of flat around the reservoir. Afterwards we started the most wonderful, gradual ascent. The valley just kept winding up through the mountains – gurgling streams along the side. Ultimately we had 2000 feet, but there were only two little steep sections, and they weren’t even too bad. Maybe I’m getting a little stronger. It was lovely with meadows and flowers, and about 35 miles into the ride we hit the summit.

We had a 7 mile descent. I was glad we rode it west to east. I thought the east side was steeper. I had quite a scare going down the mountain when my tire blew off the rim. I had a flat careening down the mountain. I came to a successful stop (means that I did not fall). Our second flat of the day –one for Bob, one for Deb.

Deb on the road to Mitchell

The last few miles into Mitchell became tedious due to a forceful wind blowing toward us. It was also rather warm. We got to Mitchell, found a diner and a root beer float, then checked into the Skyhook Motel with its 8 rooms. Cleaned up and walked down the hill through town. Before we knew it we knew almost everybody in the town. We bought ourselves each a soda, sat outside the general store with the deputy sheriff. Everybody waved at Deputy Bob. We lounged on the bench talking to Deputy Bob for a while.

It was a nice incline. The forest is beautiful. It was not really thick and had a nice green floor. The downhills are really scary. I can’t go very fast, and I don’t like them. My bike gets really twitchy and I worry about gusty winds blowing me over. The pavement was rough once we got over the summit, and this just made it worse. It was nice to have a downhill, but it wasn’t a fun downhill. I just don’t feel good about this wheel. But we finally got to Mitchell. People were very quick to tell us about our seven mile uphill first thing tomorrow. Three people told us that. Gotta love these locals.

 

Day 17 – May 21 – Miles 71/919
Mitchell, OR to John Day, OR

We got up and we were at the café at 7 o’clock. We wanted to get a head start on our uphill to the top of Mitchell Grade. Nice breakfast with the local lady. It was windy and in our face. We stopped a couple of times going up the twisty grade. After we finished Mitchell Pass, we came down through a beautiful canyon following a stream. Finally the stream met the John Day River. We passed through Picture Gorge and then another 7 miles to a diner in Dayville. From Dayville to John Day was all along the river with a gradual incline through lush fields of green cow food. Totally beautiful with the hills still green. Ridges are still capped with snow.

    Bob on the Road to John Day

Once we reached the summit, it was downhill or flat all the way to John Day, except that it was another 63 miles and a good portion of it the wind was right in our face and it was very hot. The thermometers were recording 90F, but out on the pavement it had to be way hotter than that. I was drooping. Bob was getting worried, I was turning pink, he was wearing his pink jersey and I was pinker than he was. At Mt. Vernon we stopped for a refreshing drink and for the last 8 miles it either cooled down or the wind shifted to our backs. We made it to John Day.

Today was by far our hardest day. I was really dragging the last 20 miles. I could just barely beat it out. It was hard. Everything hurt. But we survived.

 

Day 18 – May 22 – Miles 51/970
John Day, OR to Unity, OR

This morning we got up even earlier and rode along the John Day River 13 miles of flat to Prairie City for breakfast. Then we rode alongside the Strawberry Mountains until the John Day River veered off. We climbed Dixie Pass and headed along some other ridges. It is pretty in the spring with wild flowers and lupine blooming. Every time I step off the road into the woods to pee I find other little flowers like violets. The vista is wide open and air is very clear.

We had a 9 mile climb up through grazing lands to Dixie Pass, then down, then up another little pass and down, and up another pass then down. On final descent, I heard what sounded like a gunshot. Bob was right next to me. He blew out his tire. It reverberated. Anyway his wheel looks like a pretzel now. It’s all wobbly. We trued it on the road, but will work on it some more tonight. It’s 8 more slow miles to Unity. The slice in the tube was 8-10" long; Bob said 18" long. It just totally blew the tire.

We have reached the town of Unity. I’m really glad I didn’t grow up here. It’s small and windy. This town at least has some services. Some of the communities we passed through today are mail addresses only. If a town is listed on a map, don’t count on it for lunch.

I thought today was going to be really awful because we had three passes in our route. We started very early. The scenery was good, very nice. The first pass was long and had two false tops. I hate false tops. They really get to me mentally. It was also about a mile longer than we were told it was. It was nine miles instead of eight. There was a nice downhill on the other side.

                                                                                                                                    Deb in Eastern Oregon

We stopped for water at an Oregon Highway Department station. The guys there were helpful. We went up one more little pass, then another one, and on the way down that one I had another blowout. It totally screwed up the whole back wheel. It’s way out of true. We had to sit alongside the road and try to true the back tire. I’m afraid to go fast cause I don’t want another blowout during a fast descent. So we baby our way downhill.

We are in Unity. Population of 215. There are two bars, a couple gas stations, and just barely a motel. We have been in worse motels, but this is bad. It has a TV, microwave and a refrigerator, but they all look like they were built in 1955. They’ve been around a while. It is, however, the only thing here, and unless we want to go 65 we will just stay here. I don’t think we’re quite ready for a 120 mile day.

We stayed in the motel rather than the campground because it looked drab and dreary. We didn’t want to leave our gear unprotected while we went to explore Unity. Also it was very windy with a chance of showers.

Big scare for Deb. I thought it was a fly that got down my jersey. I thought I ought to get rid of it and I opened up the zipper and it was a bee. Felt a sting or something. Was it a wasp or bee biting me? Or stinging? We were in the middle of nowhere. I started worrying about an anaphylactic reaction. I carry my bee sting kit, but have never had to use it by myself. I later decided it was a yellow jacket biting me. It is in the same spot on my right breast where the last bee stung me. I was wearing the same jersey. For the rest of the trip, no matter how hot or humid, I kept my shirts totally zipped up around my neck. You know those women who ride with only halter tops…those are bee catchers to me!!!

Bob hung his bike up onto a tree branch and got the wheel pretty trued. I think we will be able to make it to Vale tomorrow and then on into Idaho.

Day 19 – May 23 – Miles 67/1037
Unity, OR to Vale, OR

Well, did we have ourselves a time today! Last night there were carpenter ants crawling all over the place. I couldn’t get to sleep. I tossed and turned and worried about carpenter ants crawling over me. Deb was mad at me cause I was tossing and turning. When we got up in the morning my back tire was flat again. And after I had trued it and pumped it up, so we would be all set to go this morning! I was pissed (upset)! So we fixed the tube again, replaced it, pumped it back up, closed the door, and started walking over to breakfast. Then - BANG!!!! We were about 10 yards from the motel when the tire blew out again. It was LOUD!

Some of the other residents of our motel were of somewhat questionable character, and it was interesting to note that when we got back from breakfast, the motel was deserted. I wonder how many of them thought my tire exploding was a gunshot?

Once again we replaced the tube and very carefully pumped it up to 100psi instead of 120psi and we nursed it along for 66 miles to Vale. It was not a mentally comfortable ride, since I was worried that it would blow out again. We were going down these nice long downhills, but I was worried about going too fast, so I wasn’t going over 10-11 mph. Finally, after we got over the passes, we had a good tail wind, and it blew us into Vale. We were going about 17 mph all the way in. The bike made it, but there are no bike shops here.

And in Vale, believe it or not, we are staying at The Bates Motel. I was kind of hoping that Janet Leigh would try to come into our room for a shower, but I had no such luck.

This might have been classified as almost the perfect day, if Bob hadn’t had such problems with his wheel. The start of the morning was through sagebrush hills then following a curving canyon up a creek with aspen growing along the roadside. Meadows stretched out filled with lots of cows. All of them stopped to stare at us as we passed. Most just stare, some run from us. It was a high mesa. No traffic. Great route except there are no services either.

The cows in every state were an absolute riot. They paid no attention to passing cars, but they would freeze and stare at the two of us on bikes. We passed huge herds, and all action in the field would stop when we passed. Can you imagine 500 motionless cows all starting right at you? A couple of times, Deb rang her bell and started mini-stampedes. I guess this is one of the side benefits of cycle touring.

Unity, as we had earlier said, wasn’t really all that attractive and we were dreading that we couldn’t get the wheel rideable and we might have to stay there a couple of days. There is nothing there except a bar with a pool table. The kids go from one store to the other store buying candy.

Today we are going through sage and grass, lots of alfalfa and hay fields, luscious tailwind. A root beer float at the end of the day is quite a treat…there is a DQ here in Vale and guess where we stopped after we got cleaned up? We walked into town looking for tubes at both the hardware store and the lumberyard. They all have mountain bike tubes only. Nothing for a road bike. We will nurse it along until we get to Ontario tomorrow.

Dairy Queens became a joy unbounded. I could spot a DQ logo from two miles away. I got to where my bike would home in on them completely unaided. Deb never believed this.

Plus we had two more little passes today-Eldorado Summit and some other hill. I swear we must be getting stronger. I don’t know. Wait until we get to the Rocky Mountains and climb 5000 feet in a day. So far I am feeling smug.

We hit two landmarks today. First we passed into another time zone. We’re in Mountain Time now. Second we hit 1000 miles today. Last night in Unity we were sleeping next to the home of the people who own the motel. They also own a bunch of horses, deer, pygmy goats, llamas, cows, and a donkey. This donkey hee-hawed all night long. After about the third time it woke us I got the giggles. Deb was not amused. It was an interesting night we had.

It was nice riding today because we got blown into town. Another stressful day with the wheel was made better because of a tailwind.

 

Day 20 – May 24 – Miles 72/1109
Vale, OR to Boise, ID

We left Vale headed for Ontario where there was supposedly a bicycle shop. We needed to have some more work done on Bob’s wheel. When we called the shop, they were not very knowledgeable, so we headed south following Highway 26 into Boise.

We got a little testy with each other along the way. Bob took off without me for a couple of miles. That was a no-no…we had promised to keep each other in sight for the whole trip.

I do not think this is correct. I was never out of sight of Deb.

The road was busy with a narrow shoulder. The closer we got to the city, the busier it got and the rougher it got. We finally got to central Boise where we found a competent bike shop (Idaho Mountain Touring). Bob ordered a new touring wheel, which will be built tomorrow.

We left Vale and I was still a little tense because I wasn’t sure about my wheel. We made it 72 miles. Pretty easy miles. Getting stronger. It was flat mostly, but 72 miles did not bother us. Except Deb was real crabby - big time crabby!

Getting into Boise was awful. We were on 20/26 route and it was supposedly a bike route but it was a terrible road for cycling. We were really scared trying to get into town. It’s like riding on the El Camino in the Bay Area. Nobody is looking for bicycles. They are all speeding down the road. We made it and had a nice dinner. And a new wheel for me. They didn’t have a 36 or a 40 spoke wheel or rim available so we got a 32 spoke touring wheel. It should be a lot stronger so we will keep our fingers crossed.

I will say that the Idaho Mountain Touring Bike Shop did a great job. With Memorial Day right around the corner, they managed to adjust their schedule and build me a new wheel in one day. Not only that, but the wheel was bullet-proof for the rest of the 3500 miles we rode. I never had to touch it again.