Wyoming

Crispy, cool.

I enjoyed the ride up the Snake River. We came here last October. The clear river then placidly flowed through previous seasons’ high water marks. Now it is spring runoff, and the water is muddy, but not very high. Wildflowers are blooming all over.

A couple of years ago there were many mud and rock slides along this section of Highway 89. We are passing through a series of major construction projects. We crossed a couple in-progress sections of loose gravel and rock, but the completed sections had great pavement and a good shoulder. When the traffic got close to us, we pulled off the road to wait for them to pass us, then we would have the road to ourselves for another half hour.

We stopped at the Wyoming Sheriff’s office on the way in. We knew there was a bike map of the state (our friend, Judy Colwell, had a copy of it), and the sheriff was aware of its existence, but he couldn’t find us a copy. It took us until Dubois before we found one that we could have. Meanwhile the Visitor’s Bureau in Jackson had one copy of it, but they wouldn’t let us more than two feet from the counter with it. Didn’t want anyone absconding with it!

As we got closer to Jackson, the traffic picked up, so we chose to ride on the bike path adjacent to the main highway. I preferred being off the road, but Bob wanted to go back to the road since the bike path had steeper grades. The path overlooked the valley below with the river meandering through it. I watched 2 kayakers exploring the river’s edge as I rode into town.

Jackson is a busy town. We found a campground across the street from the visitor’s center. Motels are expensive here. We bought some Velcro leg straps at a bicycle shop so I could strap the tent poles to the top of my rear bag more easily. We enjoyed our afternoon at the visitor’s center and window shopping.

The tent was frosty inside this morning (from the two hot airbags breathing) as well as outside. We went to breakfast while waiting for everything to defrost and dry out. It is a magnificent morning of blue sky and no wind. We get ready to leave for our ride by the Tetons. Our first stop is 3 miles north to the National Wildlife Museum of Fine Art situated on the hill overlooking Jackson Hole. It had some of the best animal art I’ve seen. We spent some time there gazing at the many beautiful pieces.

Rode north through Jackson Hole and up by the Tetons. Ambling along. It was supposed to be a short day. I don’t know how it ended up being 47 miles. We went very slowly and looked at the mountains. It was totally clear until the afternoon. The clouds formed at about 4:30.

We headed east about 6 or 7 miles from Moran Junction towards the divide. I had seen an ad for a campground with a pool, spa, deli, cabins, tent spaces, hot showers, you know...the works. When we got there we found that the pool was still being built; the spa was dismantled. The deli is only open on weekends. We rented a little cabin with no toilet for $47. The bathroom is across the road. Either $47 for a cabin or $27 for a campsite. It looks like it is going to rain and it is very windy. We have a mattress and shelter, so it won’t take as long to pack up tomorrow morning. Tomorrow is The Continental Divide, the Togwotee Pass. (The next morning we passed another campground 2 miles up the road which would have been way cheaper plus it had a restaurant next to it.)

Just as we are paying for our 2-day old reheated chicken at the store, they told us of a restaurant 2 more miles down the road. So for dinner we had old, shriveled chicken from the past weekend. At least it was reheated.

Bob is letting the stray cat into our cabin. I made him check for fleas. Now the black-and-white kitty is up in our bed. She is nice. Bob likes kitties.

As we were climbing up the hill, we kept stopping at various vantage points to look back at the Teton Range. We weren’t tired or anything. We just wanted to examine this striking mountain range rising up out of the valley floor again before we left it. Finally at Togwotee Outlook, our last view of them, I thought we were close to the top, but we weren’t, we still had another 1000 feet to climb. When we got to the top unexpectedly the mountains changed. Striated and craggy. Once across the top...well first of all we were very happy to be at The Continental Divide…there were all these grump drivers on the road. No one would smile at us. We were waving and ringing our bells and not a one gave us a second glance or honked or waved.

                                               Made it to the Continental Divide!                            

We got around to the other side and there was another really beautiful mountain range with orangy-red crenellated towers. In the forest there we saw the moose. A man from Alabama, no Arkansas, had noticed it lazing in the tree shadows, he had stopped, so we stopped and he pointed it out. We would have missed it. It was so blended into the shadow.

The Wind River was a series of oxbows that wind and wind and wind. So is it the wind or is it the winds? We coasted down the valley. It was about 15 miles of almost flat or a gentle downhill with tail wind and river alongside. Wide shoulder except for the bump, bump, bump, bump (along side the highways the road crews make bump-bump cutouts to waken drivers) and lots of gravel. There was little traffic. Great, huge slices of homemade pie half way down the mountain.

                                                                                                                                                                    Deb on the Road to Dubois

Once again I was glad we were heading west to east. So far most of the grades have seemed steeper going down. From Moran Junction to the top was shorter and more gradual than Dubois to the top. Also we more frequently have had tail winds.

The town is spelled Dubois. I tried to say it the French way Dubwah, but the locals say Dubose. It’s a cute western town with lots of log cabins and western artifacts. Once again we had a "meat" dinner. Monstrous portions, but I think we ate it all. Couldn’t see myself ordering scallops in the middle of Wyoming. Two dinners, drinks, tax and tip for less than $30.

I am very glad we began this trip in the beginning of May. First of all we haven’t had too many really hot days. The grasslands are still luxuriantly green and many flowers are blooming. Most importantly we seem to have beat most of the RVers out onto the road. By mid-June the areas around Jackson and Yellowstone are teeming with travelers navigating the narrow roads. We were worried about snowy mountain passes, but we lucked out.

I wasn’t crabby!

When we left Dubois this morning we went through the Painted Valley. It is all striated oranges and yellow on the hills. Followed the Wind River down the canyon. It was pretty, Bob was just whining. The wind wasn’t very strong this morning and it was mostly downhill.

We passed a woman’s tour of maybe 30-40 cyclists traveling the AC route from Virginia to Oregon. They have a cook, they are not carrying their stuff, and someone else figured out where they were going to stay each night. What luxury! We kept passing them. A couple of them had stopped to pee so stopped to chat with them. Later we met two of them from ACTC—Claudine, a friend of Faith Walton’s, and another one whose name I have forgotten. It was enjoyable to talk to some other cyclists.

We had been toying with the idea of heading to Pavilion, but I didn’t want to go up there because we weren’t sure if there were any services or food. If we went there and found nothing, we would have had to continue to Shoshoni. I didn’t expect much in Shoshoni either. We decided to go to Riverton because we knew there were motels and food.

We are happily ensconced in our little room with a nice shower. Once again I am naked and happy in my room.

We did have a good wide shoulder all the way. Very nice. Sections of it had a bit of debris, but it makes a comfort free ride not to have to be so worried about the traffic coming from behind. Ride along. The Wind River Mountains on our right were absolutely beautiful as we followed them down the valley.

We got a fairly early start out of Riverton this morning. The forecast temperature was to be in the 90s, so we wanted to get to Thermopolis before it got too hot. We only had 55 miles to go. It was supposed to be downhill all the way, but you know, that is never true. The road to Shoshoni was almost flat with a wide shoulder. We stopped for juice in Shoshoni and then took off through the Wind River Canyon with its rock formations. The weirdest thing is that it looks like you are going down because of the rocks’ contours yet we were pedaling. It was sooo odd. Bob stopped to check that he didn’t have another flat tire.

At the end of the canyon the river is now the Bighorn River…not the Wind River. We are in Thermopolis. The outside temperature is 105F. The newscaster says its 93F, but the thermometer on the wall differs. It must be reflected heat from the pavement, but that’s what it feels like when you are riding your bike. I was thirsty. I drank all my water today.

I have been drinking almost twice as much water as Bob. Each morning I filled my Camelback and both my bottles just to be sure I have enough. I didn’t want to buy a Camelback, but Bob convinced me it would be a good idea. I’m very glad I had it. Having the water readily available without having to reach for it meant that I drank much more easily and frequently.

We have been looking for campgrounds each night, but usually the campgrounds are way out of the towns or on the outskirts of the towns. We want to see the towns and explore a little and get food. It is nice though being in air conditioning. We were going to try to get a campground with a pool but both of the ones were way out of the town. Personally I am glad we rode to the north end of town because there is construction and the roads are all chewed up. This way we don’t have to ride through it in the morning. Now we know our way out of town, so we will be able to leave easily.

We got up really early. Forecast in the high 90s. We don’t like to ride in the heat. I never liked to ride in the heat. I will never like to ride in the heat. By 7:00 we were finished with breakfast and on the road. Really nice ride to Worland through rolling grasslands. It wasn’t flat. There were some nice stretches. We were at Worland by 10. We thought ""We’re home free." It’s only 27 miles to Ten Sleep. It got hotter than Hades. Plus they were laying out fresh HOT, BLACK, STICKY asphalt.

The map indicated an 800 foot total elevation gain to Ten Sleep. Well, we climbed that 800 feet 7 times. The temperature when we arrived was 98F. I was one wiped-out puppy. I couldn’t even pedal in my middle ring on the flat. I was just tired. I had to stop and eat some salty food for nourishment. If there had been one more uphill, I probably would have cried.

Everybody here in Ten Sleep is very friendly. We stopped first thing at Dirty Sally’s Fountain for a root beer float, then got a campsite. Neither of the two motels nor the campground had a pool. The river next to the campground is running very fast with snow melt, so I didn’t want to dip in it.

Now at 8 PM it is finally pleasant. We are under the trees. It is still 90F with a little bit of wind. I had a $5 dinner of homemade soup, salad, liver and onions with potatoes and brown gravy, and fruit. I could have had ice cream but I couldn’t fit it in. Food is way cheaper here than back in California. Bob bought a new hat. I’ll let him tell you about it.

What Bob didn’t mention is that when we were coming down the hill there were many fields of lupine. Normally I always stop to smell the flowers. Not today…I’m just riding. I just want to get done with the stupid day. Bob is going ‘Deb, look at this. Deb look at this." He is stopping to smell all the flowers. We saw quite a few deer along side the road. Off in the distance we saw some moose.

Ten Sleep Canyon was a spectacular ride of rocky crevasses, gurgling streams, waving flowers and not very much shade. Too bad it is uphill. We both ran out of water. There was supposed to be a store/resort at about 22 miles so we did not conserve. When we got there, the place was all closed up. I found an outside spigot, and knowing that it was probably not treated water, filled the water bottles anyway. A few more miles up the road we stopped at a café (that was not listed on my guide).

                                                                                                           A fragile Flower in the Midst of a Field of Lupines

Bob is wondering why this gut of his is not going away…well, a plate of peel-and-eat shrimp, all you can eat, followed by a chocolate brownie with ice cream and whipped cream on top with some fudge yuck. Yep, the gut is not going away.

Done with our mountains! We headed out from Buffalo this morning to Gillette. Guess what? There were no mountains just hill after hill after hill. I swear that I thought we were rising in elevation, but I just looked at a map and Gillette is almost 1000 feet lower than Buffalo. There’s no way! We climbed and climbed and climbed…up and down and up and down. Wind was at our back for a while. Wind was at our side for a while. Wind was at our face for a while. There was a threat of afternoon thunderstorm, so we thought we ought to get here.

Now that we are here the wind has really picked up. About 35 mph with gusts up to 48 mph. We are safe in our room. We had a very tasty dinner at Bailey’s Bar and Grill. Congenial owner. I could only eat half of my chicken enchilada. Bob had prime rib. He always has prime rib. I think there has been 3 nights on the entire trip that he hasn’t had prime rib. That’s only cause he couldn’t get it.

Hillsides are green. Quite a few antelope. Lots of cows, lots of rolling hills. Some horses.

The guy at the bicycle shop said I have a worn spot in my rear rim. He said I should keep an eye on it, but it should last until we reach our destination.

We rode out of Moorcroft without even stopping to eat. We had ridden so fast getting there that we weren’t even slightly hungry yet. We did stop at the grocery store there for liquid refreshment and to verify the existence of the café on up the road.

We stopped about 5 miles out of Moorcroft so I could take off my jacket. We had experienced a little headwind coming around the lake, so I was a little overheated. As usual we kept waving at the vehicle traffic going by. A motorcyclist and his girlfriend turned around to see if we needed help. We chatted with them a couple of minutes, then the local highway patrolman stops to see if we needed help. A mini convention out there middle of the prairie looking over Keyhole Lake.

We continued on up the road. I have never felt so happy in my life. Well maybe I have…but there were such fluffy, white clouds and antelope grazing and flowers blooming in green, waving prairie grasses. Lucid, clear air. Balmy temperature. I had only been here before later in the season when it was much dryer and browner, and did not expect such splendor.

I love the prairie dogs. They stand up and chirp to signal, strut out their chins. There are hundreds of them. At first you see only a couple of them, then more, then more. Soon you realize that the whole meadow is teeming with them scurrying from mound to mound.

From the river’s bridge I could see the fish spawning in the river and I saw a muskrat swimming along the river’s banks.

This ranks up there with "The Good Days".

One of the really fun things we did was to take the panniers off the bicycles before we rode the 3 miles to Devil’s Tower. This was such an easy 3 mile uphill. Without the additional 30-35 pounds we flew up the hill. The bikes are SO light. We watched some climbers scale the monument. Bob even beat me downhill. He is not afraid to go fast without all the extra weight that makes his bike so twitchy.

I have been supporting the local breweries whenever I have the opportunity.

It’s another glorious day sometime in June. Bob says it is the 11^th. He keeps track of things like that.

One thing I forgot to mention yesterday is that the cottonwood trees are shedding. The fluff was so thick it looked like snow as the sun set behind the tower. Sometimes this fluff bothers me as I ride because we get hot and sticky and sweaty and the stuff sticks to my skin and itches.

Bob decided last night not to go see Close Encounters, because there were about a thousand little kids lining up to see it. Also it didn’t start until 9:00 PM. That’s past bedtime for us. We had a good night’s sleep on the hard ground. He slept better than I did because my hips (you know the ones females have more of than you guys) jut out more.

We got a fairly late start. Breakfast did not open until 7 at the campground café. I’m glad we ate there though. We had planned to eat in Hulett 10 miles down the road, but even though they had a big rodeo there this weekend, there was nothing open. When we arrived in Alva (population 50), there was nothing open there either. It wasn’t until we got to the town of Alladin (population 15) that we found a café and a store. A third of the town (2 in the store and 3 in the restaurant) was involved in these establishments. They fed us very well.

Meanwhile, we had enjoyed another most beautiful day riding along the red sandstone rocks of the Belle Fouche River, which means Beautiful Forks. We stopped to listen to the wind rustling through the trees. There was no traffic. A small uphill section of the road had lots of large gravel due to construction. We walked a portion of this.

After lunch it had warmed up, but the wind was at our backs and we had a slight downhill mostly. We raced toward Belle Fouche. Big, black cumulus clouds formed quickly behind us. We rode quickly to try to beat the storm.

Upon our arrival we learned that there are severe thunderstorm warnings posted, but we made it in time. A flurry passed by us, but by evening the weather had cleared.

The section Of Wyoming that we crossed through the last couple of days from Moorcroft to Belle Fouche, SD, on Highway 14 and 24 have probably been the 2 prettiest days we have seen anywhere in the country so far.

Bob has the control of the TV. Shoot-em-up, bang-bang, cars crashing…like nothing we have ever seen before!!! This stuff is so boring.